A couple of years ago, I even wrote an article about whether or not The 25 page guide begins with a description of the classifications and characteristics of flex duct, then discusses how they're tested, listed, reported, and certified. "The ADC standards provide good guidance for duct installers.

I don't believe a 7" duct is a trunk, and therefore you should'be splitting it. Sometimes the direct vent can even go out through the rim joist above the foundation.One of these heaters with an integrated blower is recommended because it can do a lot better job of circulating warm air to a larger area. Chapter 4 is where the meat of the manual is, the installation details, and that's the part I'll talk about here.Basically, what they tell you is not to do all those things I've shown here in this blog and how to install flex ducts properly. 2) I have two ducts from the supply duct that run to the kitchen and living room. Any help would be greatly appreciated.I don't believe 7" or 8" ducts are trunks, and therefore you shouldn't be splitting them. If you can put an equal size duct inside the turn as shown below, they say you're OK.Another biggie that I see all the time is sagging ducts.

Some models that do not have the integrated blower would be a lot less effective.Thanks for contributing an answer to Home Improvement Stack Exchange! I've written a lot about duct problems, especially those in flex duct because they're so abundant. It costs more to train employees to do it right. When placed along an exterior basement wall that is not fully below grade the concentric direct venting can come through the upper part of the wall. living in a hot humid climate, I see the issues caused by lying duct on insulation on attic floor. They also refer to standards from other organizations (ACCA, ASHRAE, ASTM...) because this is an installation guide, not a complete reference work. They are pre cut by the supplier.The plenum does have a register that I can open to help heat the basement but I dont think one register near the back area of the basement will heat the basement sufficiently. I'd never have guessed that a person could cut out the entirety of the vertical component like that. Each vent requires its own branch duct from the trunk.I agree with isherwoods comment, 7" may be able to handle 2 registers but taping a line that small even with a 4" is going to really affect the amount of flow to the area it is currently going, since you are close to the furnace it would be better to add another duct for this area. If you really can't bring yourself to buy those The main reason we see so many bad installations is expense. How to Run HVAC Ducts from Furnace to a New Room ... - YouTube
Stack Exchange network consists of 177 Q&A communities including Great post Alison! If you don't want to use nylon ties, you can use metal clamps. Learn more about hiring developers or posting ads with us Wrap duct tape three times around the ends of the metal duct sleeve to secure the flex duct connection. The diagram below shows that if a flex duct has even 15% longitudinal compression, the friction rate doubles. Discuss the workings and policies of this site If someone follows them perfectly and the system is commissioned properly, it should work just fine. @isherwood correct it is 8" and the other run is 7" Are you saying to make two branches off the 8" run?I have to say I'm baffled by the giant holes in your floor joists. I've seen several in attics that have broken, due to the heat I assume, so I'm not a fan of them.Stan - We haven't seen any break, but use high quality, heavy duty ties. I could tap into one of these to run both office ducts or tap into each duct run for a single duct run into the office. The skinny on that is to make sure you get a good, solid connection between the inner liner and the connector, seal it with mastic or tape, and then bring the insulation and outer jacket over the connection and seal it, too.The fastener that's used most often, plastic zip ties, is only mentioned in the footnotes: "Nonmetallic clamps shall be listed and labeled in accordance with standard UL 181B and marked '181B-C'. The language is a bit clunky, but the diagram below shows what they mean. I hope I didn't leave any important info out. The supports need to be at the manufacturer's recommended spacing, but no longer than 4' maximum. It costs more use the right methods.

It's just that the homeowner usually bears those costs. My friend Robert Bean just posted an article about The bottom line in all this is that you get what you pay for.Well, this is quite useful to me, because the old Kraken in my attic desperately needs all of his tentacles replaced. There are times where flex duct (or sections of it) can help to reduce costs. Home Improvement Stack Exchange works best with JavaScript enabled In our retrofit work, we'd rather see a customer with a well design and installed duct system where flex is used appropriately, then have the homeowner keep a poorly designed and installed duct system because they can't afford the cost to replace it with sheet metal.

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