This required the vinyl siding to be removed, the layer of styrofoam insulation removed, the original wooden siding taken off and the tar paper the house was wrapped in removed. The passive vents probably reduced that negative effect by allowing more air to flow from the the outdoors, but it's still almost always better from an energy use point of view to NOT use turbine vents or powered attic vents of any significant size. Creating this type of ventilation channel will only work if (a) there are soffit vents at the base of each rafter bay, (b) there is a ridge vent at the top of each rafter bay, and (c) there are no dormers, skylights, valleys, or hips that interfere with the ventilation channels. 2. Now, I know I should get up there myself, but I haven't. But I raise the delta-T discussion to demonstrate why it’s so important to bring your ducts inside your home’s thermal envelope.”Dorsett adds this thought to the discussion about duct work insulation: “The reason ducts don’t need R-60 insulation despite the higher temperature difference is that total square footage of the duct surface area is much less than the attic floor, and the duty cycle on most systems isn’t anywhere near 100%. If necessary, switch the wires to reduce the blower to its lowest speed. And how much should they apply to get the R factor I need?>"I do have 2 whirly birds and 2 new passive vents to help move the air out of the attic (the 2 passive vents have resulted in a dramatic cool down in the attic after the sunsets, which is nice - i know this based on my power consumption).

Will a radiant barrier under the rafters help?”Those are the questions to get this Q&A Spotlight rolling.Dana Dorsett would have Ted get the level of insulation much closer to the R-49 recommended in the International Residential Code.“In a DOE Climate Zone 7 (not to be confused with a USDA plant hardiness zone 7) a mere 8 inches of fluff is woefully inadequate,” Dorsett says. Recently I had another HVAC company come out and put in a new bathroom vent and they told me they believed the duct work was full of water. In your location it may be worth removing/sealing all roof/attic vents entirely, and air sealing all leak between the attic & outdoors for both energy use and moisture control reasons. Burned in a 95% efficiency furnace or boiler that delivers 91,600 x 0.71 x 0.95= ~62,000 BTU per dollar, without even correcting for distribution losses, or the cost of the electricity used.
The remaining 2 tons of capacity is at least 1.5x oversized for the actual 1% load. Check the speed of the blower motor on the furnace. The unconditioned space also houses his HVAC system.The 1,800-square-foot brick ranch in Climate Zone 4 dates from the 1960s, but the previous owner installed both a furnace and ductwork in the attic just four years ago.
Press a continuous strip of foil tape to all longitudinal seams along straight runs of duct. 7. But the code recommendation for attic insulation is the same — it’s R-49 in both in Zone 4 and Zone 7. Most of the cautionary stories seem reference humid, southern locations or the use of uninsulated, poorly sealed duct work, and therefore I'd be interested to hear about anyone's "up north" experiences when the guidance linked in this article was generally followed. Air sealing all the ducts and air handler connections and seams, and air sealing all the duct boots to the ceiling gypsum (and any other penetrations) is a critical first step prior to adding any insulation.”(As it turns out, Ted initially confused the two climate zone designations. Moreover, it’s always a good idea to seal leaks at ductwork seams, to seal leaks in your home’s ceiling (the attic floor), and to improve the R-value of your attic insulation and duct insulation.”The cooling effects of an attic ventilation fan are in most cases “negative,” Dorsett says. “That said, it’s a lot of money.”One option Gray is considering is to encase the ducts in his attic with a 3-inch layer of closed-cell foam, a job he believes would be possible with one or two DIY spray kits and a total cost of between $600 and $1,200. 4. 6. 5. Even if the insulation layer is at the attic floor you'll probably be better off making the roof the pressure boundary of the house, in which case the absolute moisture levels (but not the temperature) of the attic will track that of the conditioned space below, which should reduce the condensation potential dramatically.Peak attic temperatures and most of the moisture can be reduced by installing perforated alumized fabric radiant barrier the underside of the rafters over the entire attic ceiling. One sets up a risky situation that encourages moisture accumulation in the sheathing, mold, and possible sheathing rot. Ted also has inherited a powered attic ventilator. 8. "Turbine vents usually depressurize the attic sufficiently to pull conditioned air up through the air=-leaky ceiling into the attic, which increases the cooling energy use.

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